Belagavi, also referred to as Belgaum, is located in northern Karnataka, bordering Goa and Maharashtra. It is a garrison town with a long military history. It is a city that has changed ownership among different kingdoms, sultanates, and countries.
That history can still be seen if one knows where to look. Forts, mosques, temples, and colonial architecture can be seen next door to a modern city. Belagavi does not strive to be a touristy destination; it simply has more layers than a three-hour visit can reveal.
Belagavi Fort: the stop I rushed and regretted
Belagavi Fort is a large 13th-century structure sitting in the middle of the city. It was built by the Ratta dynasty and later modified by various rulers, including Adil Shah of Bijapur and the British. Within the fort walls, there are two important structures – the Kamal Basti, a Jain temple with beautiful carvings, and the Safa Mosque, built in the 16th century.
I spent forty minutes inside. Forty minutes for a fort that deserves at least two hours of slow walking. I saw the mosque and the temple quickly, took a few photographs, and left because I thought I had more road ahead of me. Looking back, the road could have waited. The fort should not be rushed.
Kamal Basti: the detail I almost missed
Kamal Basti, located in the fort, is a Jain temple from the 12th century that is dedicated to Neminatha. Its name translates to ‘lotus temple’, which is validated by the carvings of the pillars and ceiling.
I nearly passed by it since I was hurrying. At that moment, a person sitting by the entrance waved at me to slow down and look up. I did what he told me. The ceiling was filled with amazing stone carvings that had been well preserved over time. I stood for about five minutes wishing I had come earlier without any obligations.
The Old City Lanes: what I only glimpsed
Belagavi’s old city area has a texture that comes from its position at the meeting point of three states and multiple cultural histories. The lanes near the fort carry traces of Marathi, Kannada and Urdu influences – in the food, the signage, the architecture, and the general feel of the streets.
I drove through rather than walked. That was the mistake. The old city in Belagavi is a place for slow walking, not a place for a windshield view. I caught glimpses of small eateries and old buildings and a market that smelled of spices and fresh vegetables. I caught none of the details. Next time I will surely walk.
The food I only half experienced
Belagavi sits in a region where Goan, Maharashtrian, and North Karnataka culinary influences overlap. That should have been reason enough to stop and eat properly. I had a quick plate of poha at a small stall near the fort entrance. It was good – light, lemony, topped with sev and a few fresh coriander leaves.
But I skipped the sit-down meal I should have had in the old city, where local joints serve Maharashtrian-style misal and North Karnataka thali side by side. I also missed the kunda, a rich, slow-cooked milk sweet that Belagavi is genuinely famous for. A sweet shop owner near the fort told me about it as I was leaving. I did not have time to stop. That particular regret has stayed with me.
Gokak Falls: the detour I did not take
About 60 kilometres from Belagavi are the Gokak Falls, where the Ghataprabha River drops dramatically over a horseshoe-shaped cliff. It is one of the more impressive waterfalls in Karnataka and completely accessible on a road trip through this region.
What I would do differently
I plan to reach the place the night before and spend some time until the following afternoon. This will give me the time to explore the fort at a relaxed pace in the morning and examine the famous carvings at Kamal Basti and the Safa Mosque.
Then I can reach the old city and explore it in the afternoon. The evening can be used for a big meal and going back to Kunda. Gokak Falls will only take an hour or so on the way back, not something I skipped to save some time during the trip.
What Belagavi taught me about road trips
Road trips have a limit of their own, where we don’t think much about the places to visit, and focus only on the distance travelled.
With a history of hundreds of years and incredible culinary options, Belagavi is not a place to rush. In hindsight, staying at any of the popular hotels in Belagavi would have given me the time to enjoy the city. It is still on my mind. Next time I will make a separate trip there for sure.
